Yamaha atv valve adjustment tool

Get the right tool for the job the 1st time. MC: RE Himalayan; While the overall tool quality is good and the star type socket size 10mm fit my tappet nut on the exhuat valve side, my intake tappet could not be adjusted with this tool. The base of the socket has a collar that is wider than the whole socket not allowing the socket to get between the tappet nut and the lip of the valve cover opening.

My suggestion is tovgo with the OEM tool for your bike instead of trying to save some money. Get it done right the 1st time. Verified purchase: Yes Condition: new Sold by: jbtoolsales Good tools! Do not use for Honda VF engine though.. I got these to try to adjust the valve tappets on my v30 Magna.

Good quality tool, and its a good idea, but it just doesn't work in the vf engine. There just isn't enough space. I still used the 3mm square bit but it was still tight! Verified purchase: Yes Condition: new Sold by: autopartcom. Awesome deal and product! This tool makes adjusting valves a lot easier Quality set of tools just have not used them yet. Skip to main content. Listed in category:. Email to friends Share on Facebook - opens in a new window or tab Share on Twitter - opens in a new window or tab Share on Pinterest - opens in a new window or tab.

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The RSV uses the same shims, but you need the hook looking one for the Venture. I guess I should dig mine out and throw some shims together and make a package deal.. Yamaha probably sold rites to tool to KD or Lisle. They make the majority of automotive specialty tools. The J tool on the right looks like the unit I use on my Vmax. I don't believe that either of the tools is appropriate for adjustment on any new Gen 2 Vmax from Yamaha since shims are under the buckets on those.

I can assure you the hook looking tool is correct for the RSV. There are edges on the tool that just catch the edge of the valve bucket to compress it.

You then need a magnet to remove the shim. We place 4 different orders and 2 of them cancel and said the tool was no longer available the other 2 sent us the wrong tool. Come to fine out just saying that Frank D and Clive that posted was right.

The valve tool is still available. We ended up borrow the tool from Larry Skeels he was kind to lend it to us. I picked it up yesterday with some shims, thank you Larry so much greatly appreciated, Larry I owe you one.. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment.

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy! Already have an account? Sign in here. Search In. Existing user? Share More sharing options Followers 0. Recommended Posts. Thomas Posted May 26, Posted May 26, However, always double check the timing after you are finished just to be sure.

Sometimes they do get it right. On the ZX Kawasaki getting to the shims involves pushing a Rocker Arm, also known as a Cam Follower, out of the way with a small screwdriver and popping the shim out. No special tools or nothing. The shims come in different diameters too. You can use the same shim in different make engines as long as they are the same diameter and, of course, the right thickness. Always put the side with the size stamped on it in down.

That is so the cam lobe will not wear the size markings off. Shim sizes usually come in. Like , , , , ETC. So is 2. Sometimes the decimal point is not there and sometimes the whole number is not there or so faint you can't read it. Sometimes, the factory adds a letter to the mix. Why I don't know.

Also, there are a lot of aftermarket shims out there in increments of. If in doubt measure with dial calipers. I prefer to measure them and then get the right Shim. I don't like all the factory tables and grafts and charts, Oh my!

As always, remember to double check your work. We are dealing with very small clearances here. One thousandth of an inch is not much. The shims can go in cockeyed, oil is under the shim, stuff like that can effect the clearance.

Make sure the shims are seated right. I like to turn the engine over by hand several times to seat the shims and check again. If you have to error, error on the loose side. I like to put in the feeler gauge and then spin the push rod with my fingers. It should spin freely with no up and down play. If I want the clearance to be a bit tight I tighten the adjuster till the rod spins a bit hard. Adjust till it spins real easy. Then take out the feeler gauge. On Harley-Davidson V-Twins with solid tappets.

When one valve is open the corresponding valve on the other cylinder is closed. When the rear exhaust is open, the front exhaust is closed. Same for intake.

Adjust the push rod, when the valve is closed, so that it turns easy with no up and down play, both intake and exhaust. Hydraulic Tappets Hydraulic Tappets are filled with oil and normally require no adjustment of any kind except for adjustment when the engine is being assembled. That is, the center of the shaft is ground off center so that as you turn it, the rocker arm that rides on it, moves back and forth. This increases and decreases the valve clearance.

If you adjust the valves on these engines the regular way with a feeler gauge you will be OK But, there is a better way. Start and warm the engine up enough so that it idles good. Loosen each valve adjuster lock nut and turn the adjuster shaft with a screw driver. The valve will get noisy and the engine RPM will go up. You want the highest engine RPM with the lowest tappet noise. Do this on each valve. You will notice that the engine RPMs go way up.

Sometimes as much as to RPM gain. Now back the idle down with the throttle stop screws and do it again. Yes, they will be noisy but, where do you think that RPM is coming from? Stock clearance too tight? I learned this trick from a factory mechanic when I worked in a Honda shop in He said he learned it from a Honda Factory update school. I have never heard of it from any other source. It works though.

Some people feel that leaves the valve clearance too loose. If you are one of those people it is OK, just don't set your tappets that way. Set the engine at Top-Dead-Center of the compression stroke and then loosen the adjusters. Then, as the shop manual states "Move each adjuster to the left Counterclockwise until resistance is felt.

Tighten both valve adjuster lock bolts. Don't worry, I don't think you will run across very many of them. If you do, the drill is still the same. Turn the adjuster shaft till you get the clearance you want.

Your are done. You remove a plate on the side of the cylinder and adjust things from there.